A Smile from the Streets of India
Raghu Rai came to photography by accident. “I was staying
with my elder brother Paul who was a photographer. We went to a village to take
some pictures and when the film got developed, my brother sent one of my images
to The Times in London. It was a picture of a baby donkey in the fading sunset.
The picture editor there was Norman Hall, who was the editor of the BJP Annual
and later editor of Photography Magazine. He saw this picture and published it
half page in The Times. I was working in Civil Engineering because that was
what my parents wanted me to do. It was a government job, everyone wanted a
government job in India in the 1960s, but I hated it. So when this picture was
published it was like a revelation to me and I thought, that’s it, I’m going to
be a photographer.”
“So I became a photographer in 1965. I worked at the The Statesman
in Calcutta. This was formerly a British newspaper and still had a British
editor called Ivan Charlton; he had a wonderful respect for photography. I used
to get lots of space: half pages and photo-features when something big
happened. Then I worked for India Today from 1982-1991, which was a weekly
magazine, I would get 12-14 pages for a story and I was free to choose
assignments that interested me. But that was the last job I did. It’s better to
be a free bird and do what I want to do.”
Throughout his career, the driving force of Rai’s work has
been the energy of Indian street
photography. “A few years ago there was a French-led symposium on Street
Photography held in Delhi. One of the speakers said street photography is dead.
I took him on and said the purpose of street photography, or any photography,
is to document the times we live in now. On the one hand this could be documenting
the lives of famous people like Indira Gandhi or Mother Theresa, but for me the
real purpose is to photograph the lives of ordinary people and their daily
lives because that is what makes up the soul of this country.”
One of Rai’s earliest and best-know works demonstrates this affection
for the ordinary Indian. It shows a street scene at Chowri Bazaar in Old Delhi.
The image is criss-crossed with energy, as rickshaws, trolleys, carriages and
bikes vie with horses, cows, labourers and schoolchildren for possession of the
road. Down the middle of the picture, carriage tracks have left trails through
what looks like frost. Bare-footed labourers push pipes down the roadway, while
across the top of the picture a stream of horse-drawn carriages carry
passengers to their place of work.
It is a photograph that could only have been made in India,
but Rai recognizes that, “...photography is a western invention. The influences
in Indian photography are people like Henri Cartier Bresson, Andre Kertesz and
Robert Frank. They talk about capturing a space or a moment in time. India has
different environments, religions and people. There is so much going on in one
picture that your picture needs to take in. It has to be multi-layered to
capture the complexity of India. They need not be one decisive moment, but
several decisive moments. And that’s what I try to capture in my photographs.
You have to remember India is not one country or one culture or one time. You
look at that picture of Delhi and it could have been taken 200 years ago.”
Rai believes that not just anybody can photograph this
world. “Let me tell you very honestly. India is my own world. It takes all of
you mentally, physically and spiritually. Almost every photographer in the world
comes to India at some point because, on the surface, India is a very easy
country to photograph. But India is not something you can just walk into and
understand as an outsider. I can walk around and sniff around and my
photography is life itself. It’s not a style; it’s a way of being. My context
and connectivity is with a larger space and a larger experience.”
So India may be easy for foreign street photographers. There
will be colour, chaos and a diverse range of people and places. The
photographic possibilities are endless, yet the complexity of what is in front
of one’s eyes cannot be underestimated. Nothing is simple here, nothing is
straightforward and everything has a meaning and significance. If you don’t
understand those meanings, if you can’t read those signs, signs which are
engrained into Indian ways of thinking and being, then how can you portray it?
And if you don’t portray it in your pictures, if you are missing out all these
vital elements, then how can your pictures or what you are attempting to
communicate be trusted.
One could say that only locals can truly understand the
street scenes of somewhere like New York, Paris or Tokyo. However, India is
such a complex, multi-layered society that this applies more than for any other
country in the world. At the same time, just as different cities have different
styles of representation, so they have different ways of working; New York has
the in-your-face style of Bruce Gilden or William Klein, photographers who
isolate the individual and the anxiety, Tokyo the strange anonymity of Daido
Moriyama or Shomei Tomatsu and Paris the romance and nostalgia of
Cartier-Bresson, Doisneau and Brassai. For
Rai, street photography with Indian characteristics is about joining the flow
and being invisible. When Rai photographs, he uses minimal equipment and is as
inconspicuous as possible. He is not an outsider in the crowd; he is part of
the crowd.
While street photography is Rai’s first love, he has also
worked as a photojournalist covering some of India’s most traumatic events. The
worst of these was undoubtedly Bhopal in 1984: a disaster where a gas leak at
the US-owned Union Carbide plant killed over 8,000 people in the days after the
event and many more in the years that followed. The disaster became synonymous with corporate
criminality and evasion of responsibility that continues to this day. Raghu Rai
arrived in Bhopal the day after the leak and took the picture that became the
symbol of the world’s worst industrial disaster. It shows a child being buried
in a rough mix of soil and stone. His body is wrapped in some kind of shroud
but the face is uncovered. A hand brushes his forehead in a gesture of comfort.
The eyes of the child are empty, clouded over, as though burnt by the chemicals
of Bhopal, his mouth open in an expression of exhaustion and fatigue. Nobody
knows who he child his, his body was never claimed and for all its sadness the
picture is strangely fatalistic and calm.
Rai returned to Bhopal and worked with Greenpeace, but found
the tragedy too much to bear. “It’s a never-ending story because people are
still dying there. I made a book and an exhibition and it did make a difference
at one time but when you go into tragic situations like that, it takes a toll
on you. I was there from the start and in the first three days the gas was
still there in the bodies of people and animals, seeping out. Seeing so much
death is terrible and going back was also painful because you see all this
suffering and you truly can’t change their lives. You need healing after that.”
For Rai, healing comes with the camera. “The moment you put
a camera on your eye, your focus becomes clearer and you start learning about
where you come from. When I take pictures I am exploring the people around me,
the streets around me, the world around me.”
One city that Rai is drawn to is the holy city of Varanasi.
This is where many Hindus come to burn their dead. The holiest cremation site
in Varanasi is Manikarnika Ghat. Cremation here means instant liberation from
the burden of life, a release from the endless cycles of reincarnation and
suffering. In recent years, Rai has started using panoramic cameras to take in
the totality of experiences that make up India. In his picture of Manikarnika
Ghat, a line of men stand across the image, echoing Rai’s belief that his
pictures represent a ‘horizontal experience’ of India with life stretching out
in all directions beyond the frame. “There is no exact story I’m telling here.
The body language and expressions capture the spirit and energy of the place.
My wife gets very angry when she sees this picture because of the man on the
right is holding his thing. She sees this and says to me. ‘You Indian men are
stupid!’”
Most of Rai’s work is in black and white, but he has also
shot in colour. “Earlier we used to do all black and white, but then foreign
magazines worked in colour so things began to change. Different subjects
require different responses. Sometimes the colours won’t gel. They can dig a
hole in the space of the picture. Black and white puts a filter on the
situation. It silences the noises of the colours, because colours have an
emotional and physical response. India is a very colourful country but it
doesn’t work for all subjects. I couldn’t have done the work on Mother Teresa
in colour. My training was in black and white, and because of that it makes
more sense to me. For me the best test of colour is if it can convert to black
and white, it’s a good colour picture.”
Economically, India has changed radically in the 40 years
that Rai has been photographing, and this had had effects in the way India is
represented domestically. “Indian Photography has changed. It is going through
a turning. Now everyone has a cell phone and they take a few pictures, then
they think ‘oh, that looks interesting.’ So they buy a camera and start taking
pictures. The tragic thing is we all have computers so we see thousands and
thousands of pictures, pictures from all over the world. For example, people
see work by Lee Friedlander and they try to copy him. But when Friedlander does
something it’s new. When somebody else sees Friedlander’s work and tries to do
the same, they are just making an inferior copy. Very little original work gets
done.”
“I am against style. If style emerges from your personal
life, from your experiences and your need to photograph then I can understand
it. But too often style is just copied, and then you end up with rubbish. As an
example, a few years ago, a very direct, hard flash was popular and we ended up
with lots of pictures of people looking startled and stupid. You need to be
responsive and sensitive, to receive something and not just grab it.”
“Globalisation is happening so fast in India. There is a
difference in the energy on the street so you capture these changes in your
images, but this doesn’t change your photography. As I’ve mentioned, I’m not
fond of style. The poet Khalil Gibran said, ‘These children are not my children
or your children. They are the sons and daughters of Life’s longing for itself. They came through you but not from you and though they are with you
yet they belong not to you’. I
want my image to be ‘the Life’s longing for itself.’”
“If people can connect with my pictures and enjoy them that
is enough for me. It’s like you are walking down the street and you smile at
someone and they smile back. There is nothing given and nothing taken. It is
just like a little nudge, a recognition of humanity and life. That is what
photography means to me. It is my profession, it is my religion, it is my karma,
it is my life.”
END

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